The application of skin care product in melasma treatment



Melasma is an acquired dysfunction of hyperpigmentation that sometimes presents as irregular pigmented spot on the sun-exposed areas of pores and skin, particularly on the face and neck.1 Its pathogenesis has not been absolutely elucidated. The triggers for melasma are various, together with inheritance, ultraviolet gentle, irritation, oxidative stress, disruption of the pores and skin barrier, angiogenesis and estrogen.1 The prevention of daylight and hyperpigmentation is the therapeutic objective of melasma, however melasma is intractable and readily recurrent at the moment.1,2 Regardless of accessible multimodal remedies, which embody varied topical brokers, systemic brokers, and laser remedy, therapy outcomes have been disappointing. To this date, no single therapeutic method has been proved fully efficient. Skincare merchandise are every day chemical industrial merchandise which might be unfold over human pores and skin and its appendages by smearing, spraying or different comparable strategies to scrub, skincare, magnificence, sunscreen, and modify.3 Impairment of the pores and skin barrier operate is a big reason for melasma.4 On the similar time, routine remedies may result in varied hostile results, equivalent to impairment of the pores and skin barrier operate, irritation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, scar and depigmentation.5 Skincare merchandise include many lively components, for instance, aloe, oleracea, nicotinamide, titania, hyaluronic acid that possess a wide range of useful results in whitening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and solar defending.6 Consequently, utilizing skincare merchandise not solely can enhance melasma lesions and cut back the incidence of hostile reactions but additionally can forestall recurrence as upkeep therapy.5 Now, increasingly research point out that skincare merchandise mixed with routine therapy can enhance the efficacy, tolerability and compliance in sufferers with excessive security.

Sunscreen Merchandise

UV gentle is a widely known extrinsic issue within the incidence and growth of melasma. Histopathology of melasma confirmed elevated melanin content material in all layers of the dermis.7 Melanin is synthesized by hydroxylation of L-phenylalanine to L-tyrosine or immediately from L-tyrosine.8 Any issue concerned within the pathway for melanin synthesis will have an effect on the synthesis of melanin. Initially, ultraviolet radiation up-regulate the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription issue (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1) and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT) in pores and skin.9 Amongst these, MITF serves a vital operate within the synthesis of melanin.8 Secondly, UV gentle stimulates melanogenesis by activating tyrosinase expression by varied signaling pathways, equivalent to MSH/cAMP signaling pathways, SCF/KIT signaling pathways and so forth.10,11 UV radiation may also set off keratinocytes produces and releases histamine, when histamine binds to H2-receptors, tyrosinase is activated to induce melanin manufacturing.12,13 UV gentle causes basement membrane injury by activating MMP2 and MMP9 to degrade sort IV collagen and kind VI collagen, the most important part of the basement membrane.14 Basement membrane injury allows melanocytes and melanolipofuscin granules to maneuver down into the dermis, making melasma persistent and recurrent.15 Lastly, UV gentle can affect pores and skin fatty acid metabolism that would result in skin-barrier disruption.16 Therefor, rational and efficient use of sunscreens can cut back the manufacturing of melanin, keep away from the incidence of pores and skin irritation, shield the pores and skin barrier, and forestall the recurrence of melasma, which is a vital adjuvant remedy and the idea for the therapy of melasma. On the similar time, some moisturizing components added to sunscreens may also assist restore pores and skin barrier operate.17

A current research confirmed that 100 contributors had been required to use sunscreen (Garnier White Full ®SPF19 PA+++) in the course of the daytime each 3 hours (approximate 3 mL every time) and located that changed Melasma Space Severity Index (mMASI) rating, Hello‐MELASQOL rating decline, and mMASI rating was marginally related to Hello‐MELASQOL rating after 12 consecutive weeks of therapy.18 This research confirmed that use of sunscreen alone can enhance the pores and skin lesions and the standard of lifetime of sufferers with melasma. In a single research by Lakhdar et al,19 the researchers have discovered that the scientific enchancment was noticed in 8 out of 12 volunteers who had been affected by a pre-existing melasma and common utility of sunscreen in 185 pregnant girls may forestall melasma and solely 5 new instances of melasma occurred. The Indian skilled panel advisable that sufferers with melasma use broad-spectrum anti-UV A and B sunscreens with bodily blocking brokers like ZnO and TiO2 (SPF >30) often.2 Particularly for pregnant sufferers, sunscreen stands out as the solely therapeutic choice accessible.20 At current, seen gentle(VL) can be regarded as concerned within the pathogenesis of melasma, so anti-VL brokers must be added to sunscreen.21

Whitening Merchandise

As talked about beforehand, melasma is characterised by extreme accumulation of melanin within the dermis and dermis. Melanin is synthesized and saved in melanocytes by a sequence of oxidative reactions, and thru dendritic processes of melanocytes switch to the neighboring keratinocytes, then some brown spots and patches seem on the floor of the pores and skin, and tyrosinase is the important thing enzyme within the synthesis of melanin.22 Whitening merchandise include arbutin, licorice flavone, tranexamic acid, vitamin C, inexperienced tea extract, and so forth which may whiten, anti-freckle and cut back pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase and different features.3 Niacinamide(NAM), the water-soluble, lively type of vitamin B3, can inhibit the switch of melanosomes to keratinocytes by regulating protease activated receptor-2 (par-2).23 Vitamin C, a pure antioxidant, interacts with copper ions to inhibit tyrosinase exercise, which additionally performs a big position in collagen synthesis and possess photoprotection impact.24 Vitamin E has been proved to intervene lipid peroxidation of melanocyte membranes, improve intracellular glutathione content material, and inhibit tyrosinase exercise.23 A double-blind, randomized, parallel-group scientific trial carried out by Bronzina et al25 have confirmed that the experimental group obtained the mix of beauty merchandise: Neotone® serum and Neotone® Radiance SPF 50+ (ISISPHARMA, Lyon, France) enhance the severity of melasma extra successfully and with much less negative effects in contrast with the management group solely obtained 4% HQ cream (similar formulation as Neotone® serum however the lively ingredient is changed by 4% HQ) and an SPF 50+ cream (similar formulation as Neotone® Radiance, with the identical UV filters however with out the actives). To sum up, including nicotinamide, vitamin C, vitamin E and different whitening components to skincare merchandise can cut back the manufacturing of melanin, thus enhance the pores and skin lesions of sufferers with melasma and forestall post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is a vital auxiliary means for the therapy of melasma.

Moisturizing Merchandise

Moisturizing skincare merchandise are efficient which may improve the moisture content material of the dermis, assist restore barrier operate of the pores and skin, cut back the dryness and peeling of the pores and skin, and make pores and skin clean.26 Moisturizing skincare merchandise are primarily divided into 4 classes: occlusives, humectants, emollients and rejuvenators. 1) Occlusives can type a hydrophobic layer on the floor of the pores and skin to keep away from the lack of water, equivalent to petrolatum, dimethicone. 2) Humectants are capable of improve the moisture content material of the pores and skin by attracting water from the dermis and the surroundings, equivalent to hydroxy acids, propylene glycol(glycerin), and urea. 3) Emollients can enhance the look and texture of pores and skin by filling within the crevices between keratinocytes. Most of this skincare merchandise are important fatty acids in pure oils, equivalent to linoleic acid. 4) Rejuvenators are used to complement important proteins within the pores and skin, equivalent to collagen, keratin and elastin.27 A research carried out by Kang et al confirmed that the pores and skin barrier operate of melasma was disrupted and the transdermal epidermal water loss (TEWL) of the melasma was not completely different from that of the encircling (13.5±4.0 vs 15.6±4.6, P = 0.210), however the restoration price of barrier on the lesional skins was considerably delayed (76.3±12.3% vs 62.5±22.8%, P=0.043).9 As soon as the pores and skin barrier is destroyed, the moisturizing capabilities will lower, due to this fact a vicious circle kinds.28 Peter et al29 proposed that dryness and destruction of pores and skin barrier will result in pores and skin pigmentation. On the similar time, the routine therapy of melasma, like laser remedy, native utility, may also disrupt the pores and skin barrier operate.5 Due to this fact, utilizing moisturizing merchandise every day might help restore pores and skin barrier operate and enhance the pores and skin lesions of sufferers with melasma. Xiaofeng Huang et al28 have discovered that TEWL decreased, the pores and skin water content material elevated, and the pores and skin grew to become whitened after utilizing Vaseline moisturizing lotion (Unilever firm) alone for two months in chloasma sufferers.

Medical Pores and skin Care Product

Medical skincare product, additionally known as cosmeceutical, is lively product with drug or comparable drug traits bought as cosmetics, and is a particular beauty between conventional cosmetics and medication. In contrast with conventional cosmetics, it has higher security, stability, consolation and effectiveness which primary mechanism is to extend the water content material and lipid composition of the stratum corneum to restore dermis, rebuild pores and skin barrier and anti-inflammation.3 A wide range of elements in medical skincare product play an auxiliary position within the therapy of melasma. For instance, tranexamic acid has anti-inflammation and anti-angiogenic impact.30 Resveratrol possesses a lot of pharmacological actions, together with inhibition of tyrosinase exercise, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and UV Protectant.31 The extracts from orchid (phenolic compounds) possess antioxidant properties.32 Arbutin is a hydroquinone glycoside with nice capability to cut back tyrosinase exercise.33 Soybean extract possess antioxidant properties and may suppress melanosome metastasis.34 Extracts of Aloe (aloin et al) are identified to exhibit moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. They’ll additionally promote wound therapeutic and inhibit tyrosine convert into DOPA.35,36 The extract of Camellia sinensis has the results of moisturizing, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation and inhibiting tyrosinase exercise.37 Cysteamine has the results of anti-oxidation and inhibition of tyrosinase and peroxidase exercise.38 Wenli Lu39 carried out a 12-week scientific trial in China which proved that the whitening cream include some new whitening extract of prinsepia utilis, Portulaca oleracea, China camellia, sanchi can successfully enhance melasma with no apparent hostile response in clinic. In abstract, the rational use of medical skincare merchandise for sufferers with melasma not solely can improve pores and skin moisture content material, restore pores and skin barrier operate, but additionally assist to cut back pigmentation with much less negative effects. Medical skincare product is predicted to grow to be a brand new alternative for upkeep therapy for sufferers with melasma. There are a few of the lively components for melasma therapy and their features in Desk 1.

Desk 1 Energetic Elements and Features of Pores and skin Care Product

Mixture of Pores and skin Care Merchandise and Standard Therapy

Skincare merchandise can’t solely be used alone but additionally mix with different remedy for melasma sufferers. Skincare merchandise have the impact of repairing the broken pores and skin barrier, and in addition can cut back the hostile reactions of routine therapeutic approaches, in order to enhance the tolerance and compliance of melasma sufferers. This may occasionally enhance the success price of melasma therapy. In the meantime, skincare merchandise can be used as upkeep therapy to keep away from the recurrence of melasma.

Mixture of Pores and skin Care Merchandise and Drug Remedy

Oral medicine is mostly not the primary alternative for the therapy of melasma, most often, it’s used for over-indication.5 Topical drug utility is the popular therapy choice for melasma, nonetheless, the hostile reactions like pores and skin irritation and call dermatitis are straightforward to happen after using topical medicine equivalent to hydroquinone, retinoic acid and azelaic acid.5 Many of those comfortlessness might be relieved with using skincare merchandise. A placebo-controlled, single-blind trial carried out by Ibrahim et al42 has discovered that the themes with hyaluronic acid(HA) had fewer negative effects and the recurrence price was decrease than that of hydroquinone or glycolic acid alone after 12-week therapy of melasma sufferers. The creator believes that that is associated to the moisturizing and anti inflammatory results of HA. Skincare merchandise have the features of moisturizing, anti-inflammation, repairing pores and skin barrier and so forth. Rational use of skincare merchandise can improve the tolerance of sufferers, cut back the recurrence price, and enhance affected person satisfaction.

Pores and skin Care Merchandise Mixed with Laser Remedy

Laser remedy, one of many necessary strategies for the therapy of melasma, explodes and reduces facial melanophores by photoelectric impact. Nevertheless, phototherapy may also trigger varied levels of injury to the pores and skin barrier, leading to hostile reactions equivalent to erythema, burning sensation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, hypopigmentation, aggravation of major pores and skin lesions and even scars.5 Skincare merchandise with whitening components can cut back the formation and diffusion of melanin.3 A potential research carried out by Polnikorn et al44 confirmed that laser remedy mixed with whitening merchandise can successfully enhance the pores and skin lesions of sufferers with melasma with low recurrence price (5.71%). Moisturizing merchandise are the mainstay of therapy for xerosis and pruritus.45 Skincare merchandise for selling wound therapeutic can promote wound therapeutic after laser and minimally invasive surgical procedure by including aloe, polypeptide, amino acid, hyaluronic acid and different components.3 Due to this fact, laser remedy mixed with skincare merchandise can successfully relieve discomfort of sufferers, restore pores and skin barrier and forestall post-inflammatory pigmentation and hypopigmentation.

Pores and skin Care Merchandise Mixed with Chemotherapy

Chemical peeling acts on the floor of the pores and skin by chemical compounds, leading to controllable destruction and exfoliation of the pores and skin and selling new pores and skin regeneration, in order to cut back spots.5 A scientific comparative research reveals that the mixed use of trichloroacetic acid and ascorbate can enhance pigmentation and mMASI rating of sufferers with melasma higher than trichloroacetic acid alone.46 One other scientific trial confirmed that using moisturizing cream (Winona particular care cream) after fruit acid pores and skin revitalizing process can considerably enhance the discomfort and performs a great auxiliary position for melasma in rising the stratum corneum water content material and sebum content material and restoring the pores and skin barrier.47 In abstract, chemical peeling mixed with skincare merchandise containing whitening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic components might help enhance the pores and skin lesions of sufferers with melasma, alleviate postoperative discomfort and enhance affected person satisfaction.


At current, medical skincare merchandise have grow to be an necessary a part of the administration of melasma. These above research demonstrated that varied forms of medical skincare merchandise have performed completely different roles within the prevention and therapy of melasma, however there nonetheless lack of huge pattern, multicenter, randomized, double-blind, managed experiment, and the analysis standards will not be fully unified. Due to this fact, extra related scientific commentary and fundamental analysis are wanted. Beauty dermatologists are supposed to decide on acceptable skincare merchandise and therapy packages in accordance with the pores and skin sort, situation and expectation of affected person. Sooner or later, with the additional research of the efficient elements and organic actions of skincare product, it’s anticipated to convey higher prospects for the therapy of melasma.


There isn’t any funding to report.


The authors report no conflicts of curiosity for this work.


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